Thursday, January 31, 2013

One of my fav's

I had the opportunity last year to work backstage for a show in Chicago. I took my camera just in case I had a minute to archive some of the beautiful work that was being pumped out that day. It was a blast bringing together the skill of multiple artist to create one vision. I love what magic happened that weekend. I want to share some of the photos and break down the makeup for you. For this post I wont really talk about foundations, but I used TIGI foundation for all the models.

For the model above I used masking tape to create this… umm… mask. I cut the tape for the bottom shape. I placed the TIGI black shadow using the dome brush wet with liquid enhancer; loading at the top tapeline, transitioning to color downward, and then blend away. I left the lid natural. I repeated the process with the yellow from the VIP pallet and a clean dome brush, working upward form the bottom tapeline. Now, one more time, use the black brush wet to strengthen the top line… quick before the wet shadow dries… apply your black glitter with the blending brush. Give the outside corner of the eye a straight line. Add a slight brush of the orange to the cheeks, and a blot of yellow shadow to the lips for an edgy Avant Guard look.  

Below Eye colors come from VIP pallet and Gold from to TIGI Glitz duo. The details were created by color washing the orange over the eye lid, then loading yellow with the shading brush… not blended. I loaded the end my brush heavily with Orange and very intentionally placed the color to create this whimsical lash impression just under the eyes. The checks were done with Haute TIGI blush, and Serenity for the lips.

Below is a slight variation of the look from the previous photo 
Here is a wash of Glitz gold on the eyes, and serenity on the lips.
Bring on the drama with a cocktail of black liner and Luxury lip color to create the dark blackberry lip.

Here silver and gold from the Glitz split shadow was used on the eyes (gold in the inner eye and silver on the outer edges). I wanted this makeup to have a very monochromatic feeling, so I used serenity on the lips and then dabbed the gold shadow over the lip color to highlight the center of the mouth… fantastic on the pale blonde

The model above and below are the same girl… wow, the power of change! She had beautiful brows and lids for the sultry cat eye. I gave it a little twist by masking of this mime inspired line through the center of her eyes, and shadowing the line from dark to light.

more glitter  


TIGI Liquid Enhancer and black were used to create this intense black with a glitter overlay. Gold Glitz under the eye adds a interesting pop of color to this look.

more VIP

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Be inspired… then educated

Keeping with the theme of my last post…
I have used only one model. I did her hair and makeup once before arriving on location, and then tweaked it two additional times within 1 1/2 hr. time span. I shot all of the photos in the same small parking lot/alley (all within a 30 yard. range from each other). I will breakdown this hair and makeup in at the end of this post.

If you love photography, check my photography blog and I'll breakdown this session.

Now to break it down for you…

Hair:  I wanted the first shots to have a prim feeling so I kept it neat. I like the way this beautiful ballerina baby doll looks in contrast with the urban background. 
Here is some tutorial for how I achieved this look.
First prep your hair piece. Use inexpensive synthetic extension hair, the type that is curly and take the time to break up the curls, but don't use a brush. Keep the rubber band in the middle of the extension hair (just the way it is in the package). Have someone hold the hair at the band while you take each of the curls, one by one and separate by dividing the curl shapes into smaller pieces by hand. Start the models natural hair with a high pony that is placed into a bun, Then attach the synthetic extension hair by placing and securing the band just under the base of the bun. Direct the hair laying toward the forehead. Make sure the synthetic hair is secure at the base. Now loop the hair over the bun and secure the ends under the back of the bun.

This look was created Using TIGI Fair Cream Foundation, and powdering all of the face with TIGI SHI SHI powder. Use angle brush to apply wax first then apply the power over the wax (powder color will deepen when it hits the wax).
Then TIGI Brow Sculpting Duo in Brunette.   
Create a light smoke screen of TIGI Feisty over the lid and blending all the way to the brow. Apply one set of false lashes. dust the apple of the cheek with bright pink red from the TIGI VIP palette. The lips were created by  utilizing the "lip tip" technique using TIGI Decadent Lipstick in Luxury. Luxury is an intense Red lip color, but when used in the type of application you can control the color to make a stain.

Use a lip brush and apply a small amount of lipstick to the center of the mouth where the lips touch and blend away.

Next look was done with some quick touches to create some variation from the fully primed look that we started with. All I did was loosen the curls from the bun. Then with eyeshadow I placed a wide sweep of color from the TIGI VIP palette just under the eyes. That's it… Oh, but the impact is powerful.

Last but not least…
I took the hair down and divided it into 3 sections with an asymmetrical parting in the front. I gathered the hair from each section into 3 high ponies, and wrapped each section into a knot (when you try this, place the knot as high as you want the hair to set).  I took the same extension hair from my first photos (three bundles of it), and attached it by the bands, to the 3 section knots, and used my fingers to back brush and arrange the hair the way I wanted it. For make up I lined the rims of her eyes with TIGI Perfect Pencil in blue. I detailed the VIP shadow  to mimic running makeup.  This look was really fantasy/dreamy to me. When I detailed the shadow I was intentional in the placement of color. I was hinting at the feel of long lower lashes in water blue. The last touch to this look was a hint of glitter